![]() Other devices, such as Wild County’s Variable Controller, have two modes for the discerning belayer. In other words, you can’t put the rope in backwards, which keeps Murphy’s Law at bay. The rope can then simply be pulled down after the abseiler safely reaches the ground.Ī few, such as the DMM Bug, are symmetrical which allow the brake end of the rope to run equally over either side. ![]() Both strands must pass through a belay device in order to abseil. This can be essential when abseiling as often two strands of rope will be hanging down the intended abseil line. The second feature is having two apertures (holes) to accommodate two bites of rope. This prevents the device from becoming jammed up against the users harness or from sliding away up the rope and out of reach. The first is a loop on the underside of the device, often a thin metal cable protected by a plastic sheath, through which a locking carabiner is clipped. There are two features which almost all tubular belay devices will contain. Sometimes called aperture devices, these are also made from an aluminium alloy that is lightweight and durable (Quick note: A common name for these devices is the ATC, or Air Traffic Controller, but this is just the name of the first model to hit the market, produced by Black Diamond). There are four categories of belay devices available on the market: The device is then usually clipped to the harness with a locking carabiner, often through a dedicated loop or hole on the device. The tightness of the bend is controlled by the belayer’s ‘brake hand’ on the ‘brake end’ of the rope. Remember: the tighter the bend, the greater the holding power. As the rope passes through the device it is forced to run over at least one edge in a tight bend, which is where the friction is generated. Most simply, a belay device must generate enough friction on a rope to slow or stop a climber or abseiler. Do I need a device that can accommodate two ropes at the same time? Or one with teeth for extra friction? How about one with an extra loop that allows it to auto-block? And what about the classic figure eight device like the one I used on school camp? The answers to these questions, and many more, can be found below. They have simply become indispensable, replacing centuries old techniques – one of which included running the rope behind the belayer’s back and holding on for dear life!īut the array of devices on the market these days can be bewildering. Their general purpose is to allow for friction to be applied to a rope to prevent a climber from falling, or to abseil smoothly down a sheer face. Make sure you adequately learn abseiling techniques before attempting them, as poor, or wrong techniques can prove fatal.The modern belay device is an absolute must for every rock climber’s rack of gear.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
Details
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |